AUSTRAL AT SALONE SATELLITE - SALONE DEL MOBILE, MILAN DESIGN WEEK
Carboxymethylcellulose is specified to have a shelf life of several years depending on how it is developed and combined. During the dry process of CMC it losses an average of 1,5%.- 3%. The CMC that I use has a pH level of 7. CMC is considered vegan because the plant-based fibre is commonly from wood chips and the manufacturing process is without any use of animal matter or products derived from animal origin. This type of cellulose was first developed in 1946. It is now widely used because it is non-toxic and hypoallergenic and because of its polymeric structure and high molecular weight, it can be used as a filler in biocomposite films.
CMC has unique characteristics, such as a high degree of crystallinity, tensile strength, thermal stability, biodegradability and elasticity. The cellulose is obtained directly from natural strains of fibrous plant materials, after which the etherification reaction of monochloroacetic vinegar and alkaline occurs. CMC is a biodegradable powder so it has the ability to break down naturally by the organisms in an ecosystem and can be incinerated afterwards. These facts make it a very environmentally friendly material to use. According to the FEEDAP Panel, CMC is considered safe for all animal species.
RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION AND PRODUCTION Is about doing more and better with less (impact). It is also about disconnecting economic growth from environmental degradation, increasing resource efficiency and promoting sustainable lifestyles. This sustainable development goal (12) connects to my design Austral as I focus on integrating environmental sustainability in producing and consuming; promoting sustainable consumption by making the people more aware of the material use in fashion and furniture design. This starts at the beginning of the production process, at the making of the materials. By using plant-based biomaterials I aim to create a material that can be a replacement in fashion and furniture design. In fashion with the mean of replacing the hardware and in furniture by using it as a recycled and sustainable material to sculpture. In order to grow and develop sustainably, it is necessary to maximize the natural resources and minimize the use of toxic materials, waste and pollutants, that frequently generated in the production and consumption process. By the use of various measurements and different sources, a new pattern can be created that replaces the materials that have a toxic impact on the environment.
The alginate that is used in the garment is a natural hydrogel alginate extract made from brown algae. Alginate is a biomaterial that has found numerous applications in biomedical science and engineering due to its favourable properties, including biocompatibility and ease of gelation. Alginate is both hot and cold soluble and can bind products by adding a calcium salt.
Seaweed is a sustainable source and is undeniably nutrient-rich. It contains lots of vitamin A, B12 and K, and is a good vegetarian protein source. As 70% of the world world is covered by ocean, it harbours the huge potential for cultivating seaweed as a sustainable nutritious source. All over the world, there are approximately around 10000 species of seaweed, 221 species of seaweed are utilized by humans, 145 species are used for food and 101 species are used for hydrocolloid production like alginate, carrageenan and agar.
Alginate (brown algae from Chili)
The Chilean brown algae that are used in my product include species belonging to the genus Lessonia, Durvillaea and Macrocystis. The exploitation of these seaweeds is done mainly in the northern part of Chili. This is because the environmental conditions of this region decrease initial production costs. Chilean kelps have produced a sustained increase in harvest during the last years by reaching more than 390.000 dry tons a year because of the international demand for brown algae.
The production of brown algae is also a huge matter of social relevancy because more than 15 thousand people depend directly on the exploitation and collection of this resource. As established by the local government, only authorized and registered artisanal fishermen are allowed to produce. The most exploited kelp species are lessonia trabeculata, lessonia berteroana, and lessonia spicata. Lossonia is the brown algae that is mostly used in alginate. All species have two morphotypes during their natural life cycle, which represent very different ecological roles and requirements, in both environmental and physiological aspects. Large conspicuous sporophytes alternate with microscopic few cells and benthic organisms which are gametophytes.
SELECTED FOR SALONE SATELLITE 2023
Credits AUSTRAL
Designer, Creative Director Tim Couwenberg
3D Developer and Creative Producer Nicolai Haas
Garment pictures and Film Floris Koopman
Material pictures David Siepman
Model Robin Hayford
Production assistent Dana Enser
Sample paint artist Melissa Faucher
Hairstylist Jazz Bratz
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